- To exfoliate dry skin, opt for chemical exfoliants like lactic acid or glycolic acid.
- If you have oily skin, you can exfoliate your face with either a physical or chemical exfoliant.
- Those with sensitive skin may want to skip exfoliating their face all together or only do it once a week.
- This article was medically reviewed by Debra Jaliman, MD, a board-certified dermatologist with a private practice in New York City.
- Visit Insider's Health Reference library for more advice.
Exfoliation removes excess dead skin cells from the skin's surface which helps improve its appearance. Deciding what type of exfoliator to use on your face and how often you should do it, depends largely on your skin type.
Here is how to exfoliate your face whether you have oily, dry, or sensitive skin.
Why should I exfoliate?
Other than providing a nice dermal massage, "the purpose of exfoliating is to remove dead skin cells that can otherwise get trapped on the skin's surface leading to clogged pores, rough texture and a dull appearance of the skin," says Brooke Jeffy, MD, a dermatologist at Spectrum Dermatology in Phoenix.
While the skin renews itself about every 30 days, dead cells can still cling to our skin, says Sapna Palep, MD, founder of Spring Street Dermatology in New York City. Exfoliating helps remove these leftover cells.
Because exfoliation speeds up the cell turnover process, it increases blood circulation and boosts collagen production — a protein that provides skin with structure, says Jeffy. Exfoliating also reduces the visibility of dark spots created by sun exposure.
Types of exfoliants
There are two types of exfoliants: physical and chemical. The primary difference between the two is how they work to remove dead skin cells.
Physical exfoliants
"Physical exfoliants contain some type of rough material that rubs dead cells away by force, such as baking soda or sugar," says Jeffy. But physical exfoliants are not for everyone, especially people who have sensitive, thin skin or are prone to acne or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.
"Exfoliants like pumice, walnut shell, sand, silica, and other hard or sharp pieces can actually cause tiny tears in the skin, which can lead to skin irritation, inflammation, and even post-inflammatory skin pigment changes and scarring," says Tsippora Shainhouse, MD, FAAD, a dermatologist at SkinSafe Dermatology and Skin Care in Los Angeles.
If you love the way scrubs feel, Shainhouse advises limiting your use to one or two times a month and opting for scrubs with sugar or super-fine clays. She opposes using baking soda on your skin because it can cause irritation and inflammation.
Chemical exfoliants
"Chemical exfoliants are acids that loosen the connections between cells, causing them to slough away," says Jeffy.
Instead of using physical exfoliants that can be harsher on the skin, Shainhouse recommends using chemical exfoliants such as fruit enzymes like pineapple or papaya and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs).
AHAs commonly used in cosmetic products include glycolic and lactic acid. "They behave as mild, non-abrasive exfoliants that facilitate cell turnover, leaving skin looking smoother and brighter," she says.
While the basics of exfoliating are similar for everyone, the frequency and ingredients you should choose vary depending on skin type.
How to exfoliate dry skin
If you have dry skin, be careful not to over-exfoliate as it is more fragile and can tear.
Palep recommends those with dry skin only exfoliate one or two times a week, with a hard maximum at three if you enjoy the feeling on your skin.
"Avoid beads or grains that can tear at the skin. Dry skin is already more fragile, so [physical] exfoliation is not ideal," says Palep.
Instead, Palep and Shainhouse recommend using chemical exfoliants with AHAs like:
- Glycolic acid
- Lactic acid
- Mandelic acid
- Pyruvic acid
"These skin smoothers may also stimulate the production of skin-supporting collagen and elastin," says Shainhouse. "Some dermatologists also believe that AHAs enhance the skin's moisture-retaining ability, which also helps to smooth the skin texture."
After exfoliating dry skin, use moisturizers with moisture-retaining ingredients like ceramides or hyaluronic acid, says Palep. And while every skin type should wear sunscreen with an SPF of 30, it's especially important for those with dry skin.
How to exfoliate oily skin
Exfoliating oily skin can help remove excess oil and prevent acne from developing.
Those with oily skin can generally tolerate exfoliation three times a week, says Jeffy. She suggests using salicylic acid, a type of acid commonly used to treat acne.
Because oily skin can have an extra layer of dead skin cell buildup, it may benefit from a physical exfoliant like brushing, says Palep. However, Shainhouse says people with oily skin should be wary of using harsher cleansing products or topical treatments like acne medications that may dry out the skin.
"Sometimes increased oil production is in response to skin dryness, so it is important not to damage the protective skin barrier," she says. Pay attention to what your skin is reacting to, and if its oily nature is temporary or consistent.
How to exfoliate sensitive skin
Shainhouse says people with very sensitive skin or active-acne lesions may want to avoid exfoliating altogether as not to irritate the skin further.
Palep says the same for individuals with rosacea, which is a skin condition that causes skin on and around the face to flush or turn a deep red.
Before exfoliating their whole face, those with sensitive skin should conduct a patch test:
- Apply a small amount of the exfoliant to a more discrete part of your skin.
- Wait 24 hours to see how your skin reacts.
- If your skin starts to itch, become irritated, burn or any other discomfort occurs, it's a clear sign not to use that exfoliant on your sensitive skin.
However, if you have sensitive skin that responds positively to exfoliating, still don't exceed one or two times a week, says Jeffy.
Jeffy says lactic acid is a great chemical exfoliant for those with sensitive skin because it is mild and less irritating. Another good option for exfoliating sensitive skin is a sonic cleansing device.
Those with sensitive skin should avoid physical exfoliants as they may irritate the skin further.
When to stop exfoliating
Dry, oily, and sensitive are umbrellas terms for skin type. What works for one person with similar skin to yours may not for you.
To know if your exfoliant is doing more harm than good, pay attention to how your skin looks and feels after using it. It's normal for skin to turn a light pink for about ten minutes after using a physical exfoliant, says Shainhouse. As for chemical exfoliants, a stinging sensation is normal, but it should dissipate after the product is rinsed off.
However, if you experience any of the following symptoms, stop using the exfoliant as soon as possible:
- Itching
- Swelling
- Persistent redness
- Burning
- Skin irritation
Shainhouse says these symptoms could be due to overuse, a skin allergy, or irritant contact dermatitis — a non-allergic skin reaction that occurs when a product damages the skin's outer layer. If the symptoms don't resolve on their own after stopping use, she advises consulting with a dermatologist to determine the problem.
The bottom line
There are chemical and physical exfoliants designed for different skin types. And what skin type you have will determine not only what kind of exfoliant you use but also how frequently you should use it:
- Dry skin: Use a chemical exfoliant one to two times per week.
- Oily skin: Use a chemical or physical exfoliant three times per week.
- Sensitive skin: Use a chemical exfoliant one to two times per week, max. You can also choose to avoid exfoliating altogether.
While these guidelines can help you add an exfoliant into your routine, it's best to pay attention to what feels good on your own skin. This way you don't end up using or doing something that aggravates it.
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