While oils have become a common addition to our skincare regimens today, people are still a bit wary when it comes to incorporating them into their hair care routines. But research and industry experts suggest that you should.
"There are many benefits to oiling your hair. It restores elasticity and luster, prevents breakage and keeps your hair hydrated," says Renato Campora, celebrity hairstylist and artistic director at FEKKAI. Also, "there are a lot of chemicals in the water that we use for showering that strips the natural oils your scalp produce, so adding this back in is essential," he adds.
In addition, it protects your tresses from environmental aggressors like pollution and UV rays, softens curls and adds definition to your hair, says Frédéric Fekkai, renowned French hairstylist and founder of his namesake sustainable haircare brand, FEKKAI.
Moreover, some oils may also support the scalp microbiome to reduce inflammation and encourage cellular turnover, says Bridgette Hill, a certified trichologist and founder of Root Cause Scalp Analysis.
Thanks to the variety of benefits that they offer, anyone can get a nourishing boost from using oil—regardless of the hair type and texture—yes, even those who have an oily scalp to begin with.
Not a one-size-fits-all solution
"Anyone can benefit from the nourishing and repairing capabilities of hair oils," says Shab Reslan, NYC-based hair health specialist and host of the Hair Like Hers podcast. The key, however, is to find the one that specifically works best for your mane concerns (pun intended).
Here's a complete breakdown of the best options to try, based on your hair type:
- For curly hair: Curly or coily hair can benefit from the concentrated moisture-boosting goodness of cold-pressed oils like coconut oil or castor oil. Fekkai recommends using virgin coconut oil which is proven to reduce protein loss in hair and improve scalp health. Or, you could use castor oil as an intense pre-shampoo treatment. "Because of the nutrients in castor oil, it aids in protecting the hair follicle from outside cellular and tissue invaders that destroy the health and vitality of the hair follicle," says Hill. Pro tip: Add heat or steam for deeper penetration of the oil into your hair cuticle, Hill suggests.
- For fine hair: If you have fine hair, Hill recommends argan oil. Packed with antioxidants and vitamin E, argan oil helps seal in moisture, restore hair elasticity and shine and smooth errant flyaways into submission without weighing your hair down. "Argan oil is both a lipid and lubricant, two essential qualities that are beneficial to hair fibers and overall hair health," Hill explains. Moreover, the oil's small molecular structure makes it easy to penetrate deeper into the cuticle to form a protective barrier around the keratinized hair cells, she adds. For best results, "apply liberally all over your hair fibers, avoiding the scalp if your hair gets greasy easily. Leave it overnight then shampoo the next day," suggests the trichologist. For a deeper treatment, Hill recommends castor oil. "Apply it only on the lower half of your strands as a pre-shampoo treatment to help keep the tangles away," she says. Just be sure not to overuse and shampoo thoroughly, advises the hair specialist. If you want to stay on the lighter side, grapeseed oil is another good option to add restorative moisture, strength and luster to your locks without the extra weight, says Campora.
- For frizzy hair: For taming frizz, Hill recommends avocado oil. According to a 2015 research published in the International Journal of Trichology, the minerals found in avocado oil help seal the cuticle cells that prevent hair fiber breakage. "This makes avocado oil a wonder oil for hair types who struggle with keeping the cuticle flattened—a characteristic typical of both dry and frizzy hair," Hill explains.
- For oily hair and scalp: Applying oil to an already oily scalp might sound counterintuitive but experts say that it can actually breathe life into your tresses. "It’s a common misconception that adding oil to your hair will create more grease or oil in your scalp," says Campora. "If used correctly, it’s much more of a benefit and can keep your hair looking silky and smooth," adds the celebrity hairstylist. For this hair type, Hill recommends weekly massage with oils that stimulate the scalp such as peppermint, rosemary, and citrus-based oils. "They’ll not only enhance circulation and fight unwanted bacteria and fungus but also regulate the scalp's microbiome to help stabilize overactive sebaceous glands," explains the hair care pro.
- For dry hair: For protecting and nourishing dry and damaged hair Reslan recommends marula, rosemary, rosehip and camelina oils—all of which are chock full of healthy fatty acids and antioxidants that reduce inflammatory damage and encourage better hair health.
- For all hair types: If you're looking for a lightweight option, Fekkai recommends organic shea oil which is packed with vitamins A and E, essential fatty acids and minerals. For a deeper treatment, he recommends virgin coconut oil. Besides replenishing moisture in your hair, both of these oils can help keep your scalp healthy thanks to their antimicrobial properties.
- For color-treated hair: In general, rich treatment oils such as shea butter oil are ideal for color-treated hair as they deliver deep hydration to your strands and help prevent any breakage, says Campora.
- For hair growth: Sweet almond oil and cedarwood oil are excellent options to stimulate hair growth and nourish your scalp and follicle, says Reslan. "They can be blended and used for a weekly scalp massage followed by a hair wash," she suggests.
What's the right way to use hair oil?
Now that you know which hair oil to use, here are a few quick tips on how to incorporate it into your beauty routine for best results:
- One is the magic number: According to experts, oiling your hair once a week is sufficient. "It also depends on the level of dryness your hair has," adds Campora. If you wash your hair often or have naturally dry hair, both Campora and Hill recommend leaving the oil in your hair overnight for extra moisturizing benefits. "Let it act as a pre-shampoo treatment and then wash your hair in the morning," suggests Campora.
- Always blend your essential oils before use: "Every essential oil should be mixed with a carrier oil (such as jojoba oil, olive oil, sweet almond oil, etc.) to keep it from irritating your scalp," says Reslan. Also, if you're applying essential oil on your scalp, don't leave it on for too long, says the hair health expert. "They are very concentrated products packed with powerful ingredients that should never be left on the scalp for a prolonged period as they can cause irritation—especially if you've sensitive skin," Reslan explains. Ideally, applying it 20 to 30 minutes before shampooing your hair is sufficient to reap its restorative benefits.
- Remember the correct sequence: To keep your pores from clogging, Fekkai recommends taking a few drops of the oil on the palms of your hands at a time and massaging it through your strands first. "Then add a couple of drops if needed and massage your scalp. Not the other way around," he advises.
Who should avoid using hair oils?
While oils are suitable for all hair types and textures, experts suggest that people with certain scalp conditions should steer clear of them. For example, anyone with chronic medical scalp conditions such as dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, should tread lightly when using any kind of herbal oils or products, says Hill. "Your scalp is a delicate microbiome consisting of healthy yeast called Malassezia and other essential bacteria. Certain oils can disrupt the balance of these bacteria, consequently promoting the development of unhealthy bacteria," Hill explains. Similarly, those undergoing hair loss treatment should also avoid using hair oils without consulting with their healthcare provider, says Fekkai.
If you're unsure of whether it's safe for you to start oiling your hair, consider speaking to a dermatologist or a trichologist before switching up your hair care routine.
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