Each week, we present a carefully curated selection of pre-owned timepieces available in the Hodinkee Shop. This week, we have a Rolex sports watch designed specifically for those with smaller wrists, a Breitling diver perfect for the summer season, a Breguet timepiece featuring a bracelet, widely regarded as one of the finest dress watches ever made, and an intriguing reintroduction of a 90-year-old Omega watch. So, sit back, relax, and embark on a journey as you explore this week's edition of Pre-Owned Picks in search of your next coveted timepiece.
Sports watches typically cater to a specific audience, and that audience doesn't usually include individuals with smaller wrists. When a company does attempt to target petite buyers, it is often referred to as "shrink it and pink it," implying a simple resizing and feminization of the watch. However, Rolex took a different approach with the Yacht-Master 169622. Despite its 29mm diameter, this watch is not specifically designed for someone with a seven-inch wrist (although kudos to those who can pull it off!). Instead, it caters to members of the "itty-bitty wrist committee" who desire a sports watch without compromising on any features other than size.
The Yacht-Master 169622 retains the same platinum bezel insert, cyclops date window, and dial layout as its larger 40mm counterpart. Due to the size constraints, the movement had to be altered, but Rolex equipped it with an automatic chronometer that meets their renowned exacting standards. If you're seeking a small sports watch, there truly isn't any competition for the 169622.
Introducing the Breitling SuperOcean, a dive watch that is perfectly suited for summer adventures. Once you hold this watch in your hand, you can't help but wonder why you haven't paid more attention to it before. The applied lume-filled numerals on the dial immediately catch your eye, assuring you that they will remain easily readable no matter how deep your dive goes. The recessed numerals on the bezel offer the same effect, and the notching allows for effortless rotation of the uni-directional bezel. To add a touch of color, a yellow rehaut is incorporated as the seconds track.
Beyond its visual appeal, this timepiece surpasses most other dive watches with its impressive water resistance rating of 500 meters. It is undeniably a well-built tool watch, featuring a chronometer-grade movement from a reputable Swiss brand. Whether you're heading to the beach or embarking on any water-based excursion, this watch will happily accompany you, and what's more, it can be obtained at a considerably lower price compared to its competitors.
Overall, the Breitling SuperOcean embodies a winning combination of exceptional craftsmanship, functional design, and affordability—a true companion for your summer escapades.
The Breguet Type XX 3800ST can be considered one of the most remarkable finds among pre-owned watches. While it may not be classified as inexpensive, the timepiece offers the allure of one of the oldest and most esteemed brands in the watch industry. Upon holding it in your hands, even the most discerning watch connoisseurs will be duly impressed.
The bracelet itself is a testament to meticulous craftsmanship. It features a brushed finish along the center, while the internal surfaces between each link are painstakingly polished—a visually captivating technique that demands considerable time and effort. Furthermore, the mid-case is adorned with Breguet's signature coin edge, a distinct detail pressed into the case before the lugs are attached. To ensure seamless integration between the bracelet and the case, the end link boasts a mirror coin edge, meticulously pressed to achieve a flawless match with the watch. Such subtle yet significant intricacies are often difficult to capture in pictures, revealing themselves as hidden gems upon closer examination.
Notably, the bi-directional bezel and flyback movement pay homage to the original Type XX military watches, which eventually incorporated both these features. By embracing this heritage, the 3800ST Breguet Type XX exemplifies a harmonious blend of historical significance and contemporary refinement.
Recently, Breguet unveiled the latest iteration of the Type XX, and it brings forth exciting updates. While the updated model offers two and three-register variations, it is worth noting that only this particular generation of the Type XX allows you to acquire a version without a date display while also featuring a bracelet. This distinction sets it apart from the others and adds to its uniqueness and versatility.
When creating a 40mm watch with minimal dial elements, it becomes essential to achieve perfection, and A. Lange & Söhne has indeed accomplished that feat. With only two hands and simple stick markers for the hours, the watchmaker's name and place of origin are the sole adornments on the dial. Lange's approach revolves around allowing the breathtaking finishing to speak for itself. Every visible component is crafted from 18k white gold, meticulously polished to a mirror-like shine. The mid-case, in contrast, is brushed to create a subtle contrast that accentuates the brilliance of the rest of the case.
Owning a Lange timepiece comes with the recognition of potentially indulging any watch enthusiast you encounter, as it incurs what is often referred to as the "Lange tax." This means taking the opportunity to showcase the watch's intricate inner workings by flipping it over and revealing the ¾ plate German silver movement. This remarkable movement features gold chatons, heat-blued screws, Glashütte striping, and a meticulously hand-engraved balance bridge complete with a swan neck regulator. Despite the simplicity of the dial, the movement itself is a complex assembly of screws, gears, and springs, all meticulously finished to a level that can only be described as a work of art.
This timepiece is not designed to be flashy; instead, it is tailored for those who truly appreciate watchmaking as a sublime art form, showcasing the epitome of craftsmanship and attention to detail.
Omega has a rich history of continually introducing new versions of its models, leaving behind a trail of discontinued models that collectors eagerly hope to see resurrected. In 2001, Omega initiated the Museum Collection and later the Specialties series, both focused on providing a modern interpretation of past models in limited editions.
In 2022, Omega released the numbered edition of the Omega CK 859. This reimagining of a classic from 1939 instantly became a sensation, selling out rapidly and becoming one of the most sought-after Omega timepieces for collectors. The silver dial of this beauty is adorned with a double railroad track outer dial, which, if not balanced correctly, could be overwhelming. However, Omega achieves a harmonious design by featuring only three numerals for the hours on the inner track. These numerals, including the beloved open 9 variant, are rendered in a font reminiscent of the 1930s, perfectly complementing the vintage Omega logo at the center. The package is completed by blued sword hands, adding a touch of elegance to the watch's exterior.
Now let's delve into what powers this vintage-inspired timepiece. The original 1930s watch was equipped with the Omega 30T movement, which made its debut in 1939 and played a crucial role in Omega's watchmaking until the advent of quartz watches. Renowned for their accuracy and reliability, these 30T movements propelled Omega to the forefront of the watch world during that era. As a worthy successor, the modern version features the Caliber 8926, a Master-Chronometer Co-Axial manual wind movement that represents the cutting edge of contemporary watchmaking. Notably, Omega stands as the sole watchmaker to have developed a new escapement at scale in over a century, incorporating anti-magnetic materials to meet the demands of today's electronics-filled world. This caliber truly serves as a fitting successor to a watch that celebrates Omega's rich history while embracing the forefront of horological innovation.
Find our entire pre-owned selection in the Hodinkee Shop.
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June 08, 2023 at 10:00PM
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Pre-Owned Picks from the Hodinkee Shop - HODINKEE
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